[h6]Paving Stone Installation Process[/h6]
[tabpane title=”1. Excavation”]
[img align=”left” style=”frame”]http://panjiainc.com/wp-content/themes/go-green/img/Demo.JPG[/img]
[h5]Excavation / Demolition[/h5]Depending on the existing material(s) be removed from the paving stone project area, we will determine what types of tools and equipment are necessary to complete the excavation properly. Typically jack-hammers, Polanskys (pick-axes), shovels and wheelbarrows are sufficient, however, sometimes a bobcat is necessary to remove large amounts of soil, break and remove concrete, and/or to make the job go about more efficiently.
[item]The first thing to be before digging is to identify and map out all existing irrigation and drainage lines. This will reduce collateral damage and in the case a service line is hit, we can identify and repair the line quickly and easily.
[item]We will always run string lines across the project area to measure and ensure a consistent depth of excavation – more base is better than too little base.
[item]The standard excavation depth for a paving stone installation is 7.5 inches below final grade. In some cases we will excavate to a depth of 11.5 inches – this is typical when there is a high clay content in the native soil, and/or expected over sized vehicular traffic .
[item]After excavation is complete, we will compact the native soil, and in some cases (when the native soil has a high clay content) we recommend the installation of a geo-textile fabric to eliminate the clay soils from contaminating the base material.
[i]Note: Once the excavation is complete you would then install any drainage lines needed to service the paving stone area.[/i]
[tabpane title=”2. Crushed Rock Base”]
[img align=”left” style=”frame”]http://panjiainc.com/wp-content/themes/go-green/img/base.JPG[/img]
[h4]Crushed rock base[/h4]
[p]Crushed rock base – a.k.a – class 2 road base, or, CMB (crushed miscellaneous base) is the foundation of your paving stone installation. It is critical to the performance and longevity of your pavestone installation that the sub-base is installed properly and that there is enough base under your pavers to bare the load of vehicles. The class 2 road base used in all of Panjia’s paving stone installations is the same class 2 road base used by Cal Trans on all the roads and highways throughout California. If it is good enough to hold up to semi-trucks and commuter traffic, it should be good enough for passenger vehicles.[/p]
[tabpane title=”3. Bedding Sand”]
[img align=”left” style=”frame”]http://www.panjiaoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/paver-sand.jpg[/img]
[p]Now that the class 2 road base has been graded and compacted, it is time to screen a 1 inch bed of mashed masonry or plaster sand over the base. This is done using 3/4″ – 1″ galvanized pipes and 2×4 lumber. The purpose of the bedding sand is to:
1. Act as a leveling pad to ensure the grade is consistent and smooth so the paving stones don’t settle in at different heights.
2. During the final compaction, the paving stones are compacted into the bedding sand about 1/4 inch. The sand will move up into the joint of the pavestones adding to the strength and bite of the interlocking process.[/p]
[tabpane title=”4. Paving Stone Installation”]
[img align=”left” style=”frame”]http://www.panjiaoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/paving-stone-installation.jpg[/img]
[h4]Paving Stone Installation[/h4]
[p] [b]This is when your paving stone project will begin to take shape![/b] [/p]
[p]Once it is time to start actually laying the pavers it is important to keep your string lines up and squared off with the house, or wherever you plan on squaring with. You do not want the bond line in your pattern to start drifting. The paving stones are hand placed one by one in a “click & drop” process. The paver is pressed up against the already set pavers and then dropped into place. This interlocking laying process is actually quite quick and moves along much faster than most would expect. Once the pattern is laid out to the border line the stones are then marked for cutting.[/p]
[tabpane title=”5. Cuts & Border”]
[img align=”left” style=”frame”]http://www.panjiaoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/IMG_7673.jpg[/img]
[h4]Cutting & Placing Border Stones[/h4]
[p]The first step in preparing for border stone placement is to mark out where the cut line will be, we typically use 1/2″ PVC pipe for this process. Connect the pvc pipes using couplings to run the length of the border, bend the pipes to form the desired contour and set pavers on the pipes to hold them in place. If your border stone will be abutting a house or other structure the pipes will need to be set back one border stones length (i.e. if your border stone is 8″ then the pvc pipe will be set off of the houses foundation 8 inches. [/p]
[tabpane title=”6. Joint Sand”]
[img align=”left” style=”frame”]http://panjiainc.com/wp-content/themes/go-green/img/infill.jpg[/img]
[h4]Joint Sand & Final Compaction[/h4]
[p]Lastly, a bag dried, angular jointing sand is spread in top of the paving stones 1 inch thick. This sand is then vibrated over with a vibratory plate compactor that shakes the pavestones to allow the sand to fall and lock into the pavestone joints.[/p]
var _gaq = _gaq || ; _gaq.push(['_setAccount', 'UA-28316653-1']); _gaq.push(['_trackPageview']);