Turf Installation

On demo day, our team will arrive bright and early to remove and excavate the existing surface to prepare for the turf base layer. This typically looks like a 4-inch excavation of existing grass, dirt or other debris which we haul off and dispose of.

A solid base is crucial for long-lasting turf. We use and aggregate class II road base for its superior drainage and stability. A typical project will include 3.5 to 4-inches of class II base that is imported, finely graded for proper drainage pitch and compacted with a 5,000lb force plate compactor.

To reduce future weed growth, a high-quality weed block fabric is installed over the compacted base layer. (Note: If the area is a heavy pet-use area we will typically recommend foregoing the weed block fabric to enhance drainage and cleansability). After the weed barrier layer is secured, we will begin rolling out and positioning the turf sections to optimize seam locations and grain direction.

Arguably the most critical step in the synthetic turf installation process is seaming the turf. Our unique S-Seam method reduces seam visibility, creating a seamless look across your lawn. Simply stated, each side of the seam is cut with an S curve that runs the entire length of the seam.

This method results in a seamless look that stands up under heavy traffic. Once the turf is cut and ready to secure we open up the seam and lay down a 12-inch wide seam cloth and apply a liquid moisture cured adhesive that is formulated specifically for synthetic turf installations. We DO NOT use jiffy seal or any other double sided sticky tape as they frequently fail and will not provide long term binding.

Once the seams are secured in place it’s time to begin stretching out the turf. It is critical to stretch the turf to prevent excessive thermal expansion and retraction throughout the year that could cause wrinkles across your lawn. We stretch the turf using carpet kicker tools and work across the turf panel securing the turf with nails as we stretch from one side to the other.

Once the turf is stretched and secured we start trimming the perimeter edges, trimming the turf to meet the the adjacent edge (concrete, benderboard, etc). There are different types of edging materials to be used and different methods to secure the turf edges.

Playgrounds and athletic applications do not get nailed in but instead use a perimeter nailer board that the turf is secured to using pneumatic staples along the perimeter. Most residential lawns will be nailed along the perimeter every 4 to 6 inches and throughout the field of the lawn every 2 to 3 feet on center.

We apply a specific infill that suits your turf’s use, adding ballast, enhancing its feel function and extending the life of your turf. There are many different types of infill on the market, the most commonly used being a natural silica sand in a 16 or 30 grit size. For heavy pet use areas and/or playgrounds we recommend using an acrylic coated antimicrobial infill such as Envirofill.

This premium option provides several benefits such as inhibiting pet urine odor, minimizing compaction, prevents the growth of bacteria, mold and mildew and is prop 65 exempt exemplifying that it is free of toxic or harmful chemicals. Depending on your specific turf, the amount of infill applied will be recommended by the manufacturer.

A common landscape or residential turf will require 1.5 to 3 pounds per square foot of infill. The infill is applied evenly over the entire surface using a properly functioning drop spreader. Applying infill by hand or shovel can concentrate the infill in areas causing mounding which can be felt when walking across the lawn.

The final step in the installation process is power-grooming. This step assists in distributing the infill, allowing it to settle down into the pile of the turf as well as lifting the turf fibers to ensure the grass blades are standing tall and looking natural.